Can You Spot the American?

I had a bizarre experience this weekend, as follows. On most occasions when I go out exploring, I wear my black shoes (as opposed to my grey Nike running shoes), as the black shoes have a more skid-proof sole. However, yesterday I spent about an hour on the street in my grey Nikes. During that hour I was approached no less than four times by strangers asking me if I spoke English and offering to sell me something. While wearing the black shoes I have had no one even speak to me.

I guess the black shoes look more "Ukrainian," right? Who knew?

It makes me wonder what else I do or say or wear which labels me as positive or negative, forward or backward, gullible or wise in the eyes of those around me.

Street Musicians

This afternoon I spent a few hours in Book Heaven-the little book district near the Arsenalna Metro station, which I stumbled upon in 2007. On my way to and from Arsenalna by way of Kreshchatik and Maidan, I saw quite a number of street musicians performing on accordians, guitars and (I think) a bandura. These hardy souls were plying their wares in Metro stations, tunnels or underground shopping districts. I include a few videos below.

One of these street players--a woman--was playing a most interesting stringed instrument--I am almost sure it was a bandura, a Ukrainian folk instrument of from 20 to 24 strings. She played with great skill, and then stopped playing to ask if I wanted to buy her CD.

I saw two of these musicians (here and here) playing in the same locations in 2007, which means that there are at least a few troubadours who can scrape by on the coins and small bills given to them by appreciative passers-by.

This gives me hope--if even a handful of street minstrels can make their way in Kyiv, then surely I should be able to live my dreams anywhere in the wide world.

Long Run in the Cold

Today I did a long run of about ten to twelve miles, primarily over hills, ending up at the World War II Monument. It was bitterly cold, and halfway through the run the wind kicked up and it started to snow lightly.

I first ran through the Volodymyrska Hill Park, then down to Kreshchatik and up the hill on the other side and through the Friendship Arch and to the base of the Trukhaniv Ostriv Bridge. I then had planned to run south through the heavily wooded section along the Parkovo Doroga, but found a pack of very large stray dogs zealously guarding their sylvan territory so cut back down to Grushevskovo Blvd., and so south parallel to river past Arsenalna, the Park of Eternal Glory, Pecherska Lavra and then further south down the hill to the base of the roadway leading to the World War II Monument. The only obstacle on this route was adjacent to the Presidential Palace, where they have inexplicably closed off the sidewalk, forcing pedestrians into the street. Whatever.

At the World War II Monument I ran around the hill, waved at the sleepy guard manning the security booth, and then onto the museum plaza with its vast array of World War II tanks, planes and artillery pieces, then finally up the grand sequence of stairways to exit. This last section reminded me of the first "Rocky" movie, and I almost wanted to pump my fists as I surmounted the last flight of steps.

The centerpiece of the monument is the 200 foot tall Motherland statue at the top of the cone-shaped hill. At the monument there is a continuous playing of dramatic music, including operatic pieces and patriotic music of the 1940's, as a backdrop to the monumental works of art on the hill. I include a video taken at the monument.

Thoughts on the Metro

Early in the week I did not ride the Metro, as I was commuting to and from Kharkiv. Now that I have ridden it several times, I renew my sentiment that the Metro is my favorite mode of transportation. It is a mammoth system which must have required enormous allocation of resources to build. It also serves a vast segment of the population--hundreds of thousands of people ride every day.

I have always been fascinated by the demeanor of the people riding the Kyiv Metro. There is mostly silence as the throngs descend into the cathedral-like underground structures of the Metro, and as they ride. As you descend on the long escalators, you can see the faces of thousands of people pass by you coming up. It is almost as if you can read the history of the people in the eyes of old women, workers, the young and fashionable, the handful of small children. I find the Ukrainian people generally very open, friendly, happy and even joyous--but not on the Metro. Perhaps it is memories of darker years which the Metro may symbolize. Perhaps it is an odd feeling of solitude and detachment one feels in the midst of a sea of strangers. Whatever the source, riding the Metro is a unique experience.

Waiting for the Bells of St. Michaels

I have previously written about the bells from the carillon in St. Michaels. Well, my memory was that whereas they play simple little numbers on the hour, half hour and every fifteen minutes, they produce more elaborate polyphonic pieces at certain hours. Today I went to the monastery before noon, thinking that this was one of the "hours of glory." Sadly, not, but here is the nice little piece that I did hear (sorry its sideways-I didn't know you couldn't correct the video alignment). I'm thinking Sunday may be the best day to catch the really dramatic and powerful stuff.

A Few Things I Saw Today

Today I taught again at Taras Shevchenko University and at the National Aviation University. The assignment at Taras Schevchenko is especially pleasant, as it is about a twenty minute walk from my apartment and passes some of the great churches of this city of a thousand churches.

First, immediately after leaving my apartment I am literally across the street from St. Michael of the Golden Domes, with its sky-blue walls and the brilliant golden domes which it is named and known for. I then turn left past St. Michael's bell tower and can see St. Sophia's in the distance. Past St. Sophia's I walk through one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in the world, with eighteenth and nineteenth century buildings, most with beautiful frescoes, pediments and ornate statuary--it rather reminds me of walking into a Tolstoy novel. Then I come to Taras Shevchenko University--maybe the finest university in Ukraine and in all of eastern Europe. We meet in the famous "Red Building" facing Taras Shevchenko park, with its grand central statue. Our lecture room is off of the colonade-like hallway containing portraits of the worthies of the past. Then, once finished with the lecture at Taras Shevchenko, we cross the street to catch our bus directly in front of the Volodymyr Church, with its vivid yellow walls, dark blue domes and golden stars. Finally, on my list of great things seen today, is the magnificent illuminated column of the angelic figure "Bereginia"at the Kreschatik end of the central Maidan of Kyiv.

Sacred and Profane

One of the most fascinating things about this great city is the close juxtaposition of the sublime and the ridiculous, the sacred and the profane. Outside the monastery walls there are drunks leaning on the rail--next to monumental works of art are garish billboards. I actually like this contrast, as it simply reveals this city--and all the world--for what it is, a rich, endlessly varied and vivid tapestry. The sad thing is when people are blind to one side or the other. As a wise man once said, "Thy mind, O man! . . . must stretch as high as the utmost heavens, and search into and contemplate the darkest abyss, and the broad expanse of eternity."

Trukhaniv Island

This morning I ran about six miles to and from Труханів острів (Trukhaniv Island). I first ran a couple of "Baptizer Laps" up in the area of St. Michaels and the Volydymrska Hill Park, then ran down the hill past the Catholic Church and the Museum of Art, through the underground tunnel at the end of Kreshchatik, and down the hill towards the Poshtova Ploshcha. (Are you with me so far?). From there I ran along the path adjacent to the railroad tracks towards the foot bridge leading across the Dnipro River to Trukhaniv Island. I found this, and ran for a mile or two on the island, then returned.

The views from the footbridge are glorious--the attached pictures really don't capture the vividness and excitement of the river with church domes, boats and the sky reflected in the still icy waters. I enclose one picture looking back toward Volodymyr's Hill, showing St. Michael's on one side and the grim statue of the Baptizer in the center.

It was snowing lightly when I began, but amazingly the clouds completely vanished and the blue sky appeared in all its glory as I reascended the hill towards my apartment. I enclose a shot of St. Michaels in all the effulgence of a snowy morning!

Teaching in Kyiv

Today I had my first class sessions at the law schools at Taras Shevchenko University and the National Aviation University.

It was my first time at Taras Shevchenko, which is one of the premier institutions of higher learning in the country. The campus is very close to the historic center of Kyiv, across the street from Taras Shevchenko Park and near the Universityet Metro station. The law school is located in the main "Red Building" facing the park. It is one of the finest schools I have ever scene, with beautiful classrooms, galleries and lecture halls facing the street or an inner cloister. My teaching assistant, Tetiana Rogozianska has told me much about the University, as it is where her parents met when they were both law students. We lectured in a grand lecture hall located on an arched hallway containing the portraits of University rectors and deans dating back to the 1830's. One of our students told us that this hall was reserved for "the big guys"--special guest lecturers who come to campus--I guess I have now made it as one of "the big guys."

After lecturing, Tetiana and I ate in the students' cantina, located in a grand oval chamber with a richly painted vaulted ceiling. The frescoes depict the muses of learning. The food was excellent and Tetiana and I had a nice chat over the meal.

Later, on our way to catch the Marshrutka to the National Aviation University, Tetiana took me into the amazing Volodymyrska Cathedral for a few minutes (that is the one with the striking gold stars on the blue domes).

I'll write about the Marshrutka journey in a later post--but it was (as two years ago) quite an experience.

The class at National Aviation University was small but attentive and sharp. One of the students, Irina, was with me two years ago in the same class (held, incidentally in the same lecture room).

I Reconnoiter

Last night I returned to the Kyiv apartment near 11:00 p.m. It was odd to return here in the dark--I had not yet seen the apartment or the city in the light. After doing some wash, I went to sleep.

This morning is a new day. It is bright and fairly warm outside, and I scouted out the neighborhood. First item of business was to find some groceries and water. A call to my faithful friend and handler, Olga, led me to a nice little market located in the basement of my apartment building. I got eggs, bread, milk and a huge container of spring water--at least two gallons in size. I had breakfast while listening to a Mozart string quartet and then went out again to reconnoiter the neighborhood. I walked across the street to the Baptizer statue, down the ravine to the National Philharmonic house, then along the crest of the bluff overlooking the river to the great arch monument on a high hill above the river. This arch is called the "Friendship Arch," and supposedly symbolizes the friendship between Russians and Ukrainians. I understand from one source that in Kyiv it is sometimes called "the Yoke," as the relationship historically has been less friendship and more servitude on the part of the Ukrainians. Underneath the arch are two great statues--one a Soviet bronze of two workers--Ukrainian and Russian--holding the seal of the U.S.S.R.--the other one a statue of priests and other participants in the Pereyaslavska Rada of 1654.

Most impressive is the grand viewpoint next to the Yoke Arch overlooking the river, which was blazing with light and vitality in the sunlight of this wonderful day.

Back from Kharkiv to Kyiv

Today I taught a lecture on direct examination to the two Kharkiv classes. The last class ended at about 4:00, and Tetiana and I then dashed to the train station and boarded for the return trip to Kyiv. Below see an outside shot of the amazing palace-like train station in Kharkiv. For the benefit of my grandson, who loves trains, I also include a picture of the train we rode back to Kyiv tonight.

Unlike Monday, today's ride was mostly in the dark. I met another memorable personality on the train--a big, voluble and gregarious man named Slava, We chatted about Ukraine, Russia, America, Salt Lake City, Utah, etc. while he proceeded to lay out his dinner on the little drop down table before him. Oh my--a loaf of bread, a liter or two of apple juice, another liter or two of some alcoholic beverage, an entire can of olives, and two huge containers of ham--these were topped off by sunflower seeds, more drinks, and a couple of rounds of tea delivered by the uniformed functionaries in clear glass cups held by intricately wrought silver drink holders. I think it took him two and a half hours to finish eating.

I later fell asleep during the return trip, and awoke just before we reached Kyiv at about 10:15 p.m. Tomorrow we teach at the Taras Shevchenko University and the National Aviation University.

Vladimir Counted Laps

This misty and cold morning I ran about five miles through the cobblestone streets of Kharkiv, sticking mainly to the sprawling Ploshchad Svobody (Freedom Square). I also ran through several other main thoroughfares, where there are many statues, including a monumental image of Vladimir Lenin which dominates the center of Freedom Square.

I figure it was about a half mile lap around the huge square, and so my friend Vladimir helped me to count laps.

As far as I can tell, the other statues are of soldiers defending the city from the Nazis in World War II, and an equestrian statue of, I'm guessing, a Cossack founding father.

Kharkiv's Plóshchad' Svobódy

I slept like Lenin in Lenin's tomb last night (there is a monumental statue of Lenin in Площадь Свободы--Ploshchad Svobody--hence the historical reference) and I am up early and ready to go! I was exhausted last night, but am slowly adapting to the jet lag.

I forgot to mention my new best friend--Mamadu--a six foot three African from Senegal who works as a doorman at my hotel, the Hotel Kharkiv. Mamadu is a student at Kharkiv University and has been a delight to visit with. He tells me that early in the morning there are many runners who circle the vast Ploshchad Svobody or Freedom Square. I'll give it a try in a couple of hours (with my orange running vest on, of course--the drivers are crazy--Tetiana told me yesterday that the previous Judge was almost run down by a car last week as they were trying to cross the cobblestoned square). Tetiana also told me that this is reportedly the largest square in Europe.

Not only is the hotel on this square, but also Kharkiv University. Some pictures taken on the square are attached (including this awesome aerial shot, which I obviously didn't take because it is a-from an airplane and b-during the summer). Also shown is my sweet writing desk in my room in the Hotel Kharkiv, a picture of me on the square and one of Tetiana, and finally me on the steps of one of the monumental Soviet-era University campus buildings facing the square, and my friend, the stray dog getting into the pic.

Teaching in Kharkiv

I taught two sessions today in Kharkiv with the able assistance of Tetiana Rogozianska. We were first at Kharkiv University, which has a grand old campus on the main Freedom Square, then later in the evening with students from the National Law Academy of Ukraine (named for Yaroslav the Wise). The students were extraordinarily bright and courageous, and both groups freely volunteered to try their hands at a little direct examination as part of a lecture on witness preparation.

Tetiana is a very fine teacher and has a winning rapport with the students and faculty. She is a great asset to the Leavitt Institute.

It is now early evening on Monday, and I have had only about three hours sleep in the past 36 hours, at the same time traveling probably 10,000 miles by plane and train. I am ready for a long sleep.

The Birches Seemed Dream-like

After about three hours of sleep I met Tetiana Rogozianska at 6:00 a.m. for a wild taxi ride to the main Cathedral-like Kyiv train station, and then a six hour train ride to the eastern city of Kharkiv. We found seats in one of the cars, which soon filled up with a variety of travelers--old and young. We spent the first hour or so of the journey talking about the teaching assignment. I then had much opportunity to watch the fascinating countryside slipping by outside the window. Only an hour out of Kyiv the landscape was amazingly open and sweeping, with snow covered fields surrounded by thick stands of trees. There were many small villages, most with very old brick railway stations, a few fence lined streets and old houses with freshly painted yellow, green or blue doors and woodwork. I saw an old couple pulling a small sled on a rope through the trees lining the railroad tracks, a couple of old horse carts and many uniformed militia guards at sleepy railroad crossings.

I gazed for hours at the endlessly fascinating landscape passing through the window, every coop, shed and dacha has fine paintwork and trim. Most beautiful were the trees, thick stands of maple and beech, their branches filled with migrating birds. It was a misty, cold and icy day, and truly "the birches seemed dream-like on account of that frosting."

Courage, Service, Humanity

I'll confess that today had a few tense and even frightening moments--when the plane seemed about to crash in Paris, when I missed my connecting flight, and when I momentarily couldn't find anyone at the airport (David & Chelom Leavitt were outside with their driver).

As our plane descended into the heavy cloud cover over Kyiv this evening, just after sunset, I marveled at how the pilots are able to land these big birds in the darkness and mist. Even with a full instrument panel, it takes a great deal of courage to fly a plane.

David & Chelom Leavitt's organization has had a motto of "Courage, Service, Humanity" for several years. I like that very much, and especially since it so well describes this couple. They are truly courageous people. In 2004 and 2005 they brought their entire family to live in Kyiv, during the Orange Revolution and its aftermath, no less. And this year they have again moved to Kyiv for several months to oversee the B.U.I.L.D. Initiative and to work with the mock trial teams in the spring. I saw several of the kids at their home this evening. They truly epitomize the qualities of "Courage, Service and Humanity."

The New Apartment

Well, its after midnight on my third day awake, and I can't sleep because my body is still on Mountain Standard Time (i.e., 3:00 in the afternoon), so I might as well post a few more comments.

Attached are pictures of the new apartment, which is directly across the street from St. Michael of the Golden Domes and the statue of the Baptizer. This should make a nice location from which to engage in my daily running (although, because I will be gone each week from Monday at 6:00 a.m. until Tuesday at 10:00 or 11:00 p.m. because of the teaching commitments in Kharkiv, my running in Kyiv may have to be on Wednesday through Saturday).

The only downside of the apartment so far is that it is a little cold--notwithstanding three radiators in the rooms. I suppose this is my just desserts for feeling too hot in the last apartment.

Adventures in France

I left Salt Lake City on Saturday at 4:45 p.m. on Air France, and had one of the great travel adventures of my life. The plane was completely booked. There was not a single free seat on the plane. In fact, our takeoff was delayed for about a half an hour while the captain plead for four passengers to come forward and volunteer to leave the flight and take another one Sunday and a $600 Delta credit. Presently four older gentlemen left, and we were underway. I found that my seat was in the center of the center aisle the second row from the back, near the galley. I was surrounded by what appeared to me to be a Danish or Norwegian ski team—they were speaking some Germanic language (but not German or Dutch) in any event. I had previously set my watch by Kyiv time, and tried to sleep shortly after dinner. I succeeded in getting three or four good hours of sleep. I essentially hunkered down in the midst of my Norse sports team and slept.

All went well as we proceeded across the Atlantic, over Greenland, Iceland, Ireland and England and we had made up all the time we had lost in Salt Lake City on the ground. However, as we crossed the English Channel and flew towards Paris, heavy winds picked up and the pilot instructed the flight attendantds to buckle up. We then went through the wildest flight I have ever experienced. The plane was thrown around like a rag doll, up and down, side to side. The thing creaked and banged, and everyone held their collective breath. I was actually starting to feel a little quesy, and I noticed a similar reaction from other passengers. It got progressively worse, and as we descended the last hundred feet toward the runway, we were being thrown around so violently that I feared a crash. The pilot put the plane down, and the passengers burst into spontaneous applause.

That was just the beginning of the adventures. Next, we taxied to the terminal, but the pilot soon announced that due to winds of 75 to 100 miles per hour, the airport had instructed that it would be unsafe to connect the gangway to the plane. So we sat just outside the terminal for about an hour and a half, the plane shaking violently in the wind. Meanwhile I was alarmed as the time to board my connecting flight to Kyiv came and went. Finally, about five minutes after the scheduled takeoff of my Air France flight to Kyiv, we were given the go ahead to leave the plane. I ran down a long hallway of moving conveyers to the nearest information board, which must have been a quarter of a mile away. There I noticed that the Air France flight to Kyiv was also delayed for a few minutes due to bad weather. I found out the gate and terminal numbers and followed an endless stream of signs. Presently the signes brought me up several levels to a high speed tram station! I boarded the tram and then exited at yet another maze of walkways leading to my departure gate. And there I waited as the departure was pushed back again and again. Finally, about two hours after the original departure time, we were allowed to pass through the boarding station—

But the adventure isn’t over—instead of walking directly out to a plane, we were shown a staircase, which went directly down onto the tarmac, where we were placed in a waiting bus (with no seats). It was freezing, with high winds and blowing snow, and the doors were kept open at least twenty minutes while all of the Kyiv-bound passengers boarded. Then, we drove around the mammoth airport for about twenty minutes—and parked, with the engine running for another ten or twenty minutes. Finally, they opened the bus doors and we were ushered to a little cement tower with about six flights of stairs, which we climbed, luggage and all, and were then ushered into a plane! It was bizarre! But, I am now safely seated in my Air France flight to Kyiv. I hope the rest of the journey is completed without incident.

Adieu to the Family

This trip will be my longest separation from my family since my first year of law school, when Julie came to Salt Lake City to have Jenny while I stayed in Salem, Oregon. That was the longest two months of my life. This trip I will be gone almost a full month, including my teaching assignment in Ukraine and then spending a couple of weekends in Israel with Max and Brooke.