Welcome Home from the Hajj

Hajj is the annual pilgrimage to Mecca performed by devout Muslims. Hajj is the fifth pillar or principle of Islam--essentially it is a religious duty for every able bodied Muslim that must be carried out at least once in his lifetime. In the Muslim Quarter of the Old City today, Max pointed out to me the way families decorate the doorways of their houses to welcome home a returning pilgrim. The doors are painted with bright colors, stars and Islamic insignias, much the same way we might place streamers, banners, balloons outside our American houses to welcome home soldiers or missionaries. Max said that once the Hajj has been accomplished, the returning pilgrim has then earned the honorific title of "Hajji" for the rest of his life.

Western Wall Tunnels

After paying my devotions at the Western Wall, Max and Brooke and I went on a tour of the amazing underground excavations all along the Western Wall. These tunnels were begun in the 1860's by British Army officer Charles Warren, but in recent years and months they have continued by the Israeli government. Essentially, these tunnels run along the base of the Western Wall of the Temple Mount from the Western Wall Plaza on the south all the way to the old foundation structures of the Antonia Fortress and its amazing underground aquaduct system.

The finely dressed stones in the lower courses are Herodian, while the rubble-like upper stones are from the later Islamic reconstruction. Some of the Herodian stones are more than 40 feel long and way more than 800 tons. They are laid without mortar but are so finely cut that it looks like it would be impossible to pass a knife blade between the crevices.

Another fascinating feature of these tunnels is the way they have been constructed beneath the living city of the Muslim Quarter of the Old City. Also, the depth of these underground structures is astounding. Essentially beneath every house in the Muslim Quarter near the Western Wall you may have 50 to 100 feet of historical buildings--First Temple, Herodian, Roman, Byzantine, Islamic Reconstruction, Mamluke, Ottoman, etc. These consist of streets, walls, foundations, arches, aquaducts, cisterns, etc., each built on top of the other.

"Shining a Singular Light on the Ancient Land"

Max and Brooke Stoneman are putting me up for the week in their study, with its window overlooking the Old City. They are an amazing young couple. Brooke is one of the most creative and artistic people I have ever met. An artist and writer, she is now learning the skill of book binding from one of the finest old masters in Jerusalem.

Max is one of the most brilliant people I have ever known, but he carries his intellect lightly behind a sunny, gregarious exterior. He has recently passed the Foreign Service exam and will complete his training in Washington D.C. this fall. Then, the adventures just begin for this special young couple.

In the living room of their apartment in Jerusalem I found a framed poem written by my sister, Ruth, who is Max's mother. It expresses a mother's prayer for the safety of her children half a world away:

Prayer

our treasure lives afar

across the world

in the great city

of gate

and wall

and tower

our children there

in youth and beauty live

shining a singular light

on the ancient land

Lord

bless their days

guard their feet

multiply joys

and sustain them

with thy peace

and let our love

be given wings

to cross the world

and hover near them

in the evening breeze

Mom

August 2009

Lecture at Hebrew University

This afternoon I attended a lecture on security issues with Max, which was held at the Rothberg Center of Hebrew University. We had to pass through two security stations to enter the campus, including passing through a metal detector. The campus itself is beautiful, with lush landscaping and buildings of the highest standards of modernity and functionality. The lecture we attended featured an anthropologist who is an expert in the Israeli military. I was most interested when the lecturer asked each participant to identify him- or herself that the students were from all parts of the world--Holland, Romania, Russia, Lithuania, Canada, etc. Interestingly, there were more Americans than any other single group. There were only two students originally from Israel.

Choir Practice with Max

Late Tuesday evening I accompanied Max to his choir practice. He sings in an all Jewish choir which has achieved some renown in Jerusalem, singing at the Menachem Begin Center on the same program with the Mayor of Jerusalem and in other venues this year. Next week the choir will be performing in Tel Aviv. The practice was held in a school in the modern part of Jerusalem. We traveled by bus through the beautiful city. Eli, one of the choir members gave us a ride home later. I enjoyed listening to the good-hearted conversation at the choir practice—all in Hebrew, and of course to the beautiful music, a sample of which I attach here.

(Kinda' makes me want to dance with a bottle on my head--"Ay, yai, yai, yai, yai!!")

Garden of Gethsemane

On the lower slopes of the Mount of Olives is a remarkable little private grove of very ancient olive trees, which Max negotiated our entrance into. Here there is a plaque reading “Roma a Gervsalemme.” This little grove is within sight of both the Dome of the Rock and the Golden Gate. While we were there we watched as two gardeners dug around one of the olive trees.

The Russian Church of the Ascension

Near the summit of the Mount of Olives is the Russian Church of the Ascension, which is a convent of the Russian Orthodox Church. We had a great deal of difficulty finding this site in the confusing maze of narrow streets in the very poor Muslim neighborhood. We could see the lofty bell tower of the convent, but were unable to find a way in. Eventually, after a diligent search and Max asking for directions we found a high gate down a narrow alley. I rang the bell and a man opened up and peered out. In Russian I asked him if we could visit the convent. He said, “No, it is closed.” He then paused and said, “What day is it?” “Tuesday,” I said. “And what time is it?” “10:00,” I said. He then looked puzzled and opened the door with alacrity, “Okay,” he said, “Come in.”

Inside we found a virtual paradise, with a grove of maturing olive trees, many flower gardens, rock walls, and a very peaceful little haven for the nuns. We visited the main Church of the Ascension, as well as the little refectory chapel which preserves the supposed stones where it is claimed the Savior ascended to heaven. I asked if we could climb the bell tower, but was told no.

While in a little grove trees near a majestic overlook of the City of Jerusalem, Max and I took the opportunity of offering a simple religious rite connected with our Church, with Brooke witnessing. Because of the great serenity of this place, my visit to the Church of the Ascension must stand as one of the highpoints of my visit to the Holy Land.

Hebrew University

Max is a graduate student at Hebrew University and he and his wife Brooke live in student housing near the campus. Today we walked past the main campus on our way to the Mount of Olives. Here are Max and Brooke in the kitchen of their apartment. Leaving the apartment headed for the Mount of Olives on foot we passed the old British Cemetery, then entered the academic campus. Here are Max and Brooke at one of the campus entry signs and then directly below the building where Max’s department holds most classes.

The Church of the Redeemer

I visited the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer with Max and Brooke on my first foray into the Old City this morning. This church with its lofty bell tower is a good example of the efforts of various European powers to acquire and maintain a presence in the Holy City over the past thousand years. Buiolt by Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany, this church was dedicated in 1898, constructed over the remains of an 11^th century church, St. Mary of the Latins, which had been built by wealthy merchants from Italy. This Italian church is thought to have been built over an even earlier church dating back to the 5^th century. Thus, the cultural humus of many hundreds and thousands of years has accumulated in this marvelous place.

I noted that the hymnals in the chapel of the Church of the Redeemer were in German, and Max and Brooke tell me the services here are conducted in German, although the factotum at the door gave me only a blank stare as I asked him about it in German. The most marvelous feature of the church is the soaring bell tower, which we ascended by means of several very narrow corkscrew staircases. The panoramic view at the top, however, was well worth the climb.

Where I Lived and What I Lived For

Max and Brooke Stoneman, my nephew and his beautiful wife, are graduate students living in student housing at Hebrew University. Brooke and Max are among the smartest, most personable and most creative people I know—conversation alone with them is a fascinating journey! They have already taken me on an amazing exploratory foray into the Old City of Jerusalem, and it is wonderful to have two such knowledgeable guides (including Max, who is fluent in both Arabic and Hebrew). They have opened their home to me for my week in Jerusalem and have been the perfect guests—I am trying hard not to wear out my welcome. Their apartment is beautiful and they have generously given me their study as a guest room during my sojourn. This study has a window overlooking the Temple Mount! Where else would I be offered accommodations with a view of one of the holiest sites in Christianity, Judaism and Islam?

I am looking forward to soaking up as much of this amazing place as possible in the next few days, to store away a treasure house of memories, sights, sounds and impressions of this very special place!

Sherut From Tel Aviv to Jerusalem

I rode from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem by Sherut. The cost is 50 Shekels and the driver delivers you right to your destination. The driver and passengers were all very convivial, and let me borrow their cell phones several times to call my nephew, Max Stoneman, who was waiting to meet the green traveler when he arrived at French Hill in Jerusalem. On the drive I had a long, serious discussion with an Hassidic Jew by the name of Avraham Bamberger. He is originally from England, has lived in Israel for 13 years and has a young family. He is a scholar and the associate of one of the most renowned Rabbis in Israel. He took a great interest in me, even gave me his phone number telling me that he would be happy to assist me during my trip. We talked much of Jerusalem, the Temple and my work as a judge.

The driver delivered me to the north gate of the student housing area of Hebrew University, where Max met me.