A Few Things I Saw Today

Today I taught again at Taras Shevchenko University and at the National Aviation University. The assignment at Taras Schevchenko is especially pleasant, as it is about a twenty minute walk from my apartment and passes some of the great churches of this city of a thousand churches.

First, immediately after leaving my apartment I am literally across the street from St. Michael of the Golden Domes, with its sky-blue walls and the brilliant golden domes which it is named and known for. I then turn left past St. Michael's bell tower and can see St. Sophia's in the distance. Past St. Sophia's I walk through one of the most beautiful neighborhoods in the world, with eighteenth and nineteenth century buildings, most with beautiful frescoes, pediments and ornate statuary--it rather reminds me of walking into a Tolstoy novel. Then I come to Taras Shevchenko University--maybe the finest university in Ukraine and in all of eastern Europe. We meet in the famous "Red Building" facing Taras Shevchenko park, with its grand central statue. Our lecture room is off of the colonade-like hallway containing portraits of the worthies of the past. Then, once finished with the lecture at Taras Shevchenko, we cross the street to catch our bus directly in front of the Volodymyr Church, with its vivid yellow walls, dark blue domes and golden stars. Finally, on my list of great things seen today, is the magnificent illuminated column of the angelic figure "Bereginia"at the Kreschatik end of the central Maidan of Kyiv.

Teaching in Kyiv

Today I had my first class sessions at the law schools at Taras Shevchenko University and the National Aviation University.

It was my first time at Taras Shevchenko, which is one of the premier institutions of higher learning in the country. The campus is very close to the historic center of Kyiv, across the street from Taras Shevchenko Park and near the Universityet Metro station. The law school is located in the main "Red Building" facing the park. It is one of the finest schools I have ever scene, with beautiful classrooms, galleries and lecture halls facing the street or an inner cloister. My teaching assistant, Tetiana Rogozianska has told me much about the University, as it is where her parents met when they were both law students. We lectured in a grand lecture hall located on an arched hallway containing the portraits of University rectors and deans dating back to the 1830's. One of our students told us that this hall was reserved for "the big guys"--special guest lecturers who come to campus--I guess I have now made it as one of "the big guys."

After lecturing, Tetiana and I ate in the students' cantina, located in a grand oval chamber with a richly painted vaulted ceiling. The frescoes depict the muses of learning. The food was excellent and Tetiana and I had a nice chat over the meal.

Later, on our way to catch the Marshrutka to the National Aviation University, Tetiana took me into the amazing Volodymyrska Cathedral for a few minutes (that is the one with the striking gold stars on the blue domes).

I'll write about the Marshrutka journey in a later post--but it was (as two years ago) quite an experience.

The class at National Aviation University was small but attentive and sharp. One of the students, Irina, was with me two years ago in the same class (held, incidentally in the same lecture room).

Cathedral, Park and Fruit Stand

On the way back to my apartment this afternoon I chanced to walk by the beautiful Volodymyrska Cathedral on Taras Schevchenko Blvd. Note the interesting way in which stars have been painted on the tops of some of the domes. And see the amazing lettering in the arch above the main doorway. Olga tells me that this ancient Cathedral was refurbished in about 2000. Then I walked through the Park, stopping to see the chess players on the South end, although there was such a large group clustered around one table that I couldn't see anything. Perhaps some Grandmaster was there locked in battle with a challenger. By late afternoon the heavy snowfall was still being dealt with. Notice the huge crew of snow shovelers clearing the walkway leading to the statute of Schevchenko. The public works officials apparently eschew mechanical devices like snow blowers or snow plows. If you click on the picture for enlargment, it looks like the poet is stoically observing the shovelers, his shoulders and front covered in a shawl of snow. The large crew was being marshalled and directed by an imperious looking woman wearing a long apron under her green service parka. Finally, I stopped at an outdoor fruit stand, and bought several oranges. Adjacent stands were offering women's fur coats, bolts of fabric, flowers and hand made craft items.