Kharkiv--Initial Thoughts

Two days a week I will be lecturing at the Kharkiv National University in Kharkiv (Харківський національний університет) located in northeast Ukraine. Kharhiv is the second largest city in Ukraine with a population of about 1.5 million people. It has a metro system, has been a major center of industry and manufacturing dating back to the early Soviet era and was actually the first Soviet capitol of Ukraine. Below is an aerial picture of the Maidan Svobody, or Freedom Square, where I will be staying one night a week in the Kharkiv Hotel, directly across the street from the University.

Historically, Kharkiv was founded in the 17th century by a cossack named Kharko, and it was the site of four major battles during World War II. Occupied by the German army for much of the war, Kharkiv was the site of a mass genocide of some 30,000 Jewish residents, who were murdered and buried in a mass grave in a ravine outside of the city called the Dobytsky Yar.

In addition to Freedom Square, I hope to see the Dormition Cathedral, the Intercession Cathedral and the Annunciation Cathedral.

I will be traveling to and from Kharkiv by train from Kyiv each week during my visit, accompanied by my teaching assistant, Tetiana Rogozianska. More about her later.

The New Kyiv Apartment

Corresponding with Chelom Leavitt and Olga Kupriyevych over the last 24 hours, I have received some more detail about the apartment in downtown Kyiv, which will be my home base for much of November. It is located at Triokhsviatytelska St. N

o. 9. It appears from the map and from Olga's excellent description that this apartment is directly across the street from the Volodymyrska Hirka park where the statue of the Baptizer is located overlooking the Dnipro, and only a few minute walk from St. Michael of the Golden Domes. It is also very close to St. Sophia's as well as the Maidan. I also note from the maps and a German language guidebook of Kyiv that I own, that the apartment is almost next door to the Catholic St. Alexander's Church. Olga tells me that it is only a twenty minute walk from the apartment to Taras Shevchenko University, which is one of two Kyiv universities where I will be lecturing. The second university--the National Aviation University, is reached by Marshrutka bus connections.

As I wrote in 2007, this neighborhood is very special to me, and I spent several days exploring this hill and all of its pathways, churches, monuments, gazebos and groves. I spent part of Thanksgiving 2007 writing in the Victorian gazebo overlooking the Dnipro. I also rode the Funicular almost every day from the Metro station at the bottom of the hill up to the rear of St. Michaels. This is also where I attended the very memorable Liturgy in the refectory church of St. John the Theologian, chronicled elsewhere on this site. Below is a view of St. Michaels on the right, and the little refectory church on the left.