A Grandfather At Last

Since several colleagues and Ukrainian law students have inquired, I will report that on December 5, 2007 I finally became a grandfather--ten days after my return from Kyiv. Our new grandson, James, is healthy and happy, as are his parents, pictured here.

Let this be a fitting benediction on my Ukrainian adventure--to return home to my wife, my children, and now a first grandchild.

Little Man

Little man, so sweet and mild,
The night is cold and dark and wild;
Sleep, our wee December child,
There's time enough for thee!

Time to breathe the winds of spring,
To watch the bird on golden wing;
Time to run and hide and swing
Beneath the garden tree!

And ere you step across the street,
With eager gaze and footsteps fleet,
There's time to hear the Wisdom sweet
At thy mother's knee!

Your future toils may be great,
With stony walls and doorways strait,
But you'll be lead through every gate,
Clutching tight your key!

So, little man with sleepy eyes,
Tiny wanderer in disguise,
Soar in your dreams through azure skies,
So far across the sea!

By Daniel Bay Gibbons
December 5, 2007

Family Reunion in Salt Lake City

In Salt Lake City I had a wonderful reunion with my wife and six children (including our son-in-law--he was disappointed that I had not brought him an accordian, but was happy with the replacement gift: a bulava). My wife and four of our children met me at the airport with a welcoming sign. We traveled to our home, where we were joined by our married (and very pregnant) daughter and her husband and had a sweet visit lasting several hours.

It is good to be home.

Journey Home: New York to Salt Lake City

The final leg of my journey took me on a nighttime Delta flight to Salt Lake City from JFK airport. I found myself sitting next to Elder Shtrbachka, a young man from Novisad, Serbia who is one of the first full-time LDS missionaries from that Balkan country. He will serve for the next two years in the Utah Salt Lake City North Mission. A member of the LDS Church for only nineteen months, I was impressed with his intelligence, good humor and courage.

After eating dinner on the plane, I was able to sleep for about four hours before landing in Salt Lake City just before midnight. Thus ends my journey of more than ten thousand miles.

Journey Home: Kyiv to New York

The flight from Kyiv to New York lasted about eleven hours, passing through the airspace of Ukraine, Belarus, Poland, Lithuania, Sweden, Norway, England, Ireland and Canada. On the trip I had a delightful visit with Mariana, a twenty-one year old Ukrainian woman from Lviv who was traveling to Northern Virginia where she will be working for a year in an internship. She represents the best and brightest that Ukraine has to offer--a smart, courageous and humane Ukrainian young person with endless possibilities. She spoke of the difficulties someone in her circumstances has in trying to find a foothold in her native land.

After a grueling flight, I arrived at John F. Kennedy Airport in New York, where I went through passport control, customs, and then had to recheck my luggage and go back through security screening before waiting more than four hours for my connecting flight to Salt Lake City.

Journey Home: The Apartment to Borispol Airport

I arose early this morning to complete my packing, close out the apartment and prepare for the trip home. Olga Kupriyevych arrived a few minutes after eight to tell me goodbye. The apartment manager, Evgeniy, arrived at 8:30 and I was off to the Borispol Airport. It was a cold, foggy morning in Kyiv with the trees appearing like ghosts on the side of the motorway. I had a nice talk with Evgeniy of the drive. He is age twenty-six, married, with two children. He has abandoned a career as a teacher to pursue the real estate business, as he found that he was unable to adequately support his family with teaching.

At the airport I checked in at the Delta counter, went through passport control and customs, and sat down for a long wait of about two hours in the terminal. An hour before takeoff, the passengers on my flight to New York were lead as a group through screening, and I finally boarded the Delta 737 at about noon. This time, the plane was able to come directly to the gate, and I did not have to be transported by bus between the terminal and the plane on the tarmac. We took off at 12:30 and I left Ukrainian soil behind in the fog.

Taking Leave of Kyiv

The Dnipro rolls on far below me, under the winter skies,
River barges moving suspended, detached on the waters,
And the wheeling birds in their winter flight, hovering over the trees,
The trees bowing over the majestic snows of Kyiv.
Around and over the river swarm you thousands,
And tens of thousands, people of the City, buying, selling, returning home,
Moving in countless conveyances on land and water,
The screeching of your wheels and blare of warning horns,
And vehicles above and below the earth, ever moving,
Ever breathing in and out with the passage of people.
I descend with you, I ascend with you,
The endless conveyors of the people, the stream of bundled figures,
I see you, each one, the secrets of your eyes and faces,
The history of your wanderings and toils,














The imprint of the village and farm, the survivors of Tsars and Tyrants,
The imprint of the West, the imitation of foreign trends and traits,
The careless pride in your boots, your bells, your sashes, your furs,
The hopes of young eyes, the memories of the old, the peace and serenity of your spirits.
Close now in my thoughts, you people of Kyiv, wending your way home, over the silvery streets, Walking now in bundled figures,
In companionable and silent throngs beneath the golden domes, the sky-blue walls,
Walking through your City, with the churches of the saints strung like pearls on a silver string,
City of a thousand churches, with all the bells ringing,
The sunlight gleaming from your onioned domes.
City of an ancient fame, City of an ancient name,
Your heroes fixed in bronze, the snow bowing down their shoulders,
The icicles run from elbows and beards.
City of Sorrow, of the prison doors, the starving millions, the fearsome pollutions,
City of death and life, of prison doors closed and then flung wide.
City and nation at the crossroads, at the junction of languages, tongues and people,
Gateway of Europe, highway of Asia, headwaters of the Black Sea and Mediterranean,
The cradle of culture, the prisoner of Empire,
And now, finally now, you City of the past, present and future, your free banners flowing, ,
City of lights, of endless passage, of learning, of love and of hope, I take my leave of you,
City of the Great Gate, long sealed and barred, now swinging wide.

Daniel Bay Gibbons

Kyiv, Ukraine

Friday, November 23, 2007

A Final Walk Through Kyiv

Though it is a cold and overcast day, I left the apartment at mid day (after packing) and took a final ride on the Metro and a walk through the streets of Kyiv. I rode the Funicular, saw St. Michael's, walked past St. Sophia's, visited St. Andrew's, browsed on the Andriysky Spusk, and ended up in my gazebo on the promontory overlooking the Dnipro. From there I said my goodbyes to this great and ancient City, and took my leave.

An "Avoska"--Just in Case

I learned a valuable lesson this week from the Leavitt Institute's Ukrainian "handler, confidant and guardian," Olga Kupriyevych. (Olga is pictured here with Ukrainian First Lady, Katerina Yushchenko). On Tuesday night we were walking past the myriad humble food vendors lining the sidewalks near the Byeresteyska Metro station, when Olga spied some very nice looking potatoes. "Oh," she said. "I need some potatoes." She then reached in her blue briefcase and pulled out a large, sturdy plastic sack. She purchased the potatoes and stowed them in the bag, and we were on our way.

She later explained that growing up in a small village north of Kyiv, her grandfather taught her that she should always carry an extra bag. He called this an "авоска," which means, "just in case." Thus, "just in case" you saw something along your way that you needed, you could immediately buy it and place it in your "avoska" without having to return home for something to carry it in.

There is great wisdom in carrying an "avoska" in our journeys. We ought never to be so smug to think that we know it all, or we have all that we can ever need. There will be rich stores of experience, knowledge, friendship and Wisdom along our paths. When we meet someone new, or attain some new insight--think thoughts we have never had before--we should pull out our "avoskas," and go on our way rejoicing. Thanks, Olga, for sharing your rich experience and perspective with me these past two weeks. I will carry them in my "avoska" forevermore.

"Is There a Light For Me?"

Over the past several days I have been dipping into my new copy of Shevchenko's "Kobzar" (which means, "The Bard" in Ukrainian). I attempted to work out the meaning of several of his little poems. The first few lines of this one, entitled "Сестрі" with a date of July 20, 1859, appealed to me:

Минаючи убогі села

Понаддніпрянські невеселі,

Я думав: «Де ж я прихилюсь?

І де подінуся на світі?»

(In my edition of "Kobzar," this appears at page 642) My rough attempt at translation (with vast textual liberties taken) is as follows:

Passing Dnipro's towns and streets,

Of leafless trees and pavements gray,

I thought: "Is there a light for me

Above some porch along the way?"

This seems to capture the deepest longing of the human heart--to belong somewhere, to have a refuge from the night, to see welcoming faces peering through the evening windows, yellow with light. This sentiment has come to mind again and again over the past few days, as I have seen men on crutches asleep in the portals of the Metro, old women sitting hunched on street corners with little paper cups, begging for a few small coins, or long lines of plain-looking men and women selling home-grown beets, potatoes, cabbages, nuts or home preserves on busy sidewalks. It touches your heart to see those who are lost, alone, frightened or struggling to survive in this cold and wintry world.

.

In some small way, my efforts of the past few weeks have been to light a lamp above some little front porch by the wayside--to assist in kindling the light of freedom and liberty among a people who for too long have been subjected to fear and darkness. May the porchlights of this great nation burn ever bright.

Opening Statement Presentations at International and Aviation

On this final day of classes, I heard opening statement presentations at both the Kyiv International University, and the National Aviation University. At International, we were disappointed again in a very poor attendance, with only two students present on the final day of classes. Both of the students, Iegor Sierov and Helena, presented the opening statement. Later that evening, we had somewhat better attendance at the National Aviation University, where Helen and Marina presented for the Prosecution, and Ira, Katya and Ann for the Defense. Marina won the "Prosecution White Hat Award," and Ira won the "Bob Smith Black Cap Award." My impression of the students at the National Aviation University is very strong. There are a number of very diligent and intelligent young women in this law school who, with proper encouragement, might make very outstanding courtroom advocates.

And thus ends the twenty separate lecture segments of my two-week experience in Kyiv. It has been an absolute delight to work with so many bright and promising young people.

A Hilltop View of the Rolling Waters of the Dnipro

This Thanksgiving morning I spent about an hour seated in an old Victorian style gazebo which sits on the promontory of Volodymyrska Hill Park. From here there is a sweeping view of the Dnipro River, far below, of the monument to Prince Volodymyr, the "Baptizer," of the beautiful tree-lined avenues of the park, and even of the sunlight glinting off of the spires in St. Michael's of the Golden Domes. I sat for a long time in solitude, gazing at the river and writing.

The view of the Dnipro from this point is incomparable. With the Nile, the Mississippi, the Amazon, the Yangtse, the Ganges, the Rhine and the Danube, this is one of the great rivers of the world. It has been the broad avenue of cultural change. The ancient Rus settled on these banks, ultimately carrying their great culture north into present-day Russia. There were great Viking trading outposts here and elsewhere along this river in the tenth and eleventh centuries. In more recent times, this river has been the chief commercial road between the Mediterranean and Black Sea ports and the great interior of the Soviet Union and of Russia. It has witnessed both great prosperity and great tyranny. And the Dnipro flows ever on, oblivious or indifferent to the rise and fall of Tsars and tyrants.

A great man once wrote, "How long can rolling waters remain impure?" As long as the rains and snows of heaven continue to fall upon the land of any people, how long can their rivers run polluted and choked with mud and debris. How long can oppression and hatred and tyranny bind a people when the waters of liberty, goodness and Wisdom are flowing freely. Even in the face of the darkest oppression, the rolling waters will ultimately run as clear as the mountain stream. The waters seem now to be running clear for the Ukrainian people. May the rolling waters sweep away all that clouds and pollutes this great people. May it ever be so.

These, and other thoughts crowded around me as I sat overlooking the beautiful Dnipro. This may be my most memorable Thanksgiving Day, spent in a little gazebo overlooking this special and sacred spot of Kyiv.

The "Baptizer" in Sunlight

This morning I paid another visit to the great monument to Prince Volodymyr the Great in the beautiful Hill Park bearing his name. To me this is the most special and sacred ground in the City, as I have an indescribable feeling come over me as I walk in this area. There is a peace, a tranquility, an awe that permeates this amazing monument. This monument is a survivor and a transmitter. It has survived the last years of Tsarist Rule, and the entire dark era of the Soviet Union. It is the largest religious monument to have survived the depradations and desecrations of Stalin. It is also a transmitter of the most ancient history and traditions of Ukraine, dating back a thousand years and more. This stark, awesome monument epitomizes Kyiv and all that the city means to me.

The Funicular in Action

Its Fun, Funny, even Funky. The Funicular is a unique nineteenth century trolley system that runs from the Poshtovo Ploscha Metro Station (which is almost at elevation of the Dnipro River) up the steep wooded hillside to the top of the Volodymyrska Hill Park. It is one of my favorite attractions in Kyiv, as it evokes the period of late Tsarist Rule of the late nineteenth and early twentieth century. There are two cars, each suspended from a huge steel cable, like counterweights on a grandfather's clock. Thus when one car ascends from the riverside station, the companion car at the top of the hill begins a smooth descent. The cars are both custom constructed at a nunique angle so that the passengers in each of the compartments are always sitting or standing upright. The ride is very smooth and very quiet, hardly disturbing the birds sitting on the boughs of the surrounding trees. In fact, one has this surreal sense of detachment, leaving the crowded Metro and the busy Kyiv sreet and then boarding the Funicular as if entering a separate peaceful world. So far I have ridden the Funicular six times, as it is a very convenient way for me to get either to the Volodymrska Hill Park, to the Monument to Prince Volodymyr the Great (the "Baptizer"), to St. Michael's of the Golden Domes, or to the Andriysky Spusk.

Opening Statement Presentations at the Economics University

This evening I heard eight outstanding opening statement presentations from the large class of law students at the National Economic University. The presenters were Kate, Alex and Andrei for the Prosecution, and Irina, Natalya, Tatyana (blonde), Tatyana (brunette--that is how I keep them separate in class), and Sergey. I gave the "Prosecutor's White Hat Award) to Kate and the "Bob Smith Black Hat Award" to the blonde Tatyana. All of the other presentations were impressive.

On balance, I believe that the class from Economics is our strongest this year, though there are brilliant individuals in the other schools. Teaching in this University in this fine mock trial room has been a highlight of my time in Kyiv.

Opening Statement Presentations at KROK

Today was the final session at KROK. During the first hour I presented my lecture on the opening statement to about a dozen students in attendance. During the second hour two students, Ina and Olga, were brave enough to attempt to present their own opening statements, and both did very well.

Overall, the experience teaching at KROK has been a mixed bag. On the positive side, we have had good faculty support, as well as some individually very talented students. On the negative, there are a number of non-law students who do not bring the same focus and discipline to the task as the law students. Also, the numbers in attendance have been very low in comparison with the other schools, particularly the Academy and the Economics University. Nevertheless, this seems to be a relationship which deserves careful nurturing in the future.

Opening Statement Presentations at the Academy

This morning I conducted the final session at the Academy of Advocates for the Fall Semester. We had presentations from six law students, including two for the prosecution and two for the defense. I awarded gift tee shirts for all presenters, but reserved special prizes for the top prosecution and top defense presenters. These were a "Prosecutor's White Hat" and a "Defendant's Black Stocking Cap." Taisia won the top award for the Prosecution and Oleg for the Defense, although there were several other presentation that could easily have won. Other presenters included Alexander, Stanislav, Viktor and Aleksay.

My experience at the Academy has been outstanding. The faculty has provided great support, with two professors in attendance for each session. The student presentations have been outstanding. I look for great things from this group in the future.

Thoughts About Packing

I imagined that packing to go home would be a breeze, since I had brought an entire suitcase full of gifts for the law students. This suitcase is now entirely empty. However, last night and today I began to think of all of the things I intend to take home, including many gifts for my family. I decided to make an attempt to put everything in this suitcase. I gathered together everything and began filling the suitcase, finding to my delight that everything fit in, albeit somewhat tightly. Then I realized that I had not even put a single book in the suitcase.

Now I am exploring other options, such as loading two computer keyboards in my carry-on hanger bag, holding my largest book in my hands (a one volume set of Tolkien in Russian), and fitting a few books in my briefcase.

Fortunately, the most valuable possessions I take home--my friendships, my memories and the written descriptions of my trip--do not occupy any space in my luggage. All of my luggage could be lost enroute home, and I would still retain forever the most precious gifts from Ukraine, to treasure and cherish forever.

Lecturing on Opening Statement at International and Aviation Universities

This afternoon and evening I lectured on the opening statement to law students at the Kyiv International University and the National University of Aviation. I had a very small group at International, which was disappointing, but the largest group yet at the Aviation University. The students at Aviation are very focused and attentive, and had many wonderful questions during and after the lecture. As with the Academy and the Economics University, I used the lecture device of a deck of playing cards to discuss the necessity for proper order in storytelling, and also discussed the theme and theory of the case.

As a change from last week's procedure, Olga and I traveled from International to Aviation on the tram, instead of on a private bus. This not only cut down the travel time, but was much more pleasant. Our route took us by a multitude of persons selling small amounts of produce and other farm products--nuts, berries, beets, cauliflower, whole chickens, apples, pears, and other produce.

The "Golden Gate" in an "Iron Curtain"

Right outside the exit doors of the Zoloti Voroda Metro station is the monument which gives the place its name, the "zoloti Vorota" or Golden Gate of the city of Kiev. The history of this gate is emblematic of the long and often troubling relationship between Russia and Ukraine. This is, indeed the site of a very ancient gate to the City of Kyiv, constructed by Yaroslav the Wise in the eleventh century. Historical records show that the gate was used for many centuries, although by 1750 the gates were in ruins and partially covered with earth. In the nineteenth century the earth was scraped away from the ancient foundations of the gate so they could be seen, and this was the state of affairs until the 1982 construction of the monument depicted here. In 1982 there was a celebration of the 1,500th anniversary of the founding of Kyiv, and at that time the Soviet Union commissioned architects and archaeologists to construct a new gate upon the original site. The problem is that the new "reconstruction" is built upon the ancient one, thus essentially destroying the archaeological site. There are also many questions about the accuracy of the Soviet reconstruction. Upon inspecting the new "Golden Gate," I found it telling that there are placards commemorating the event in both Russian and Ukrainian. On the south side of the monument are huge doors, and on the north side a sliding spiked grate with timber latticework.

In contemplating the presence of this monstrosity, it occurs to me that the intent behind the Soviet reconstruction was to coopt Ukrainian history and place it within the ambit of the Russian-dominated Soviet Union. In other words, the Soviet gate it is not a gate which "opens" but a gate which only "closes." It closes freedom, inquiry and even history for the Ukrainians. This was literally the "Golden Gate" in the "Iron Curtain." Thus, I find it poignant that the "Golden Gate" was locked when I inspected it.

Now that the "Iron Curtain" has been breached, the doors of the "Golden Gate" are swinging open for Ukraine and all of the other oppressed nations of eastern Europe. May the doors of the "Golden Gate" never again be locked!